Paris-based designer Esteban Cortazar has partnered with Net-a-Porter to relaunch his label in a magnificent return to fashion. The label was debuted at Paris Fashion Week and is exclusive to the online cartel. It all began when Net-a-Porter’s Fashion Director, Holli Rogers had a chat with the designer, “Through a chance encounter with Esteban after he had left Ungaro, we conceived the idea of his return to fashion with a collection that will be available for sale the moment it is revealed to the world.” The collection includes more than 30 pieces ranging from $270 to $2715 in Cortazar’s signature muted colour palette of rose gold, nude and off white.
We asked Cortazar a few questions about the collaboration, his vision and living in Miami.
Can you describe the collection to us?
The starting point for this collection was the thought of a new beginning and a white canvas to build on. I wanted to have a sense of purity through sensual and sculptural yet fragile lines, evoking movement, sharpness and light that caresses the female form. There is a little bit of everything in the collection, from jackets and coats to dresses and blouses. We wanted to have a trans-seasonal airy and pure feeling throughout.
Who do you imagine wearing your designs?
I do not focus on one specific girl, rather I like to think of a variety of women when I design. I think about my friends and women that inspire me, who are all different ages and ethnicities. What they tend to have in common is that they are strong, sensual women and very much in touch with their soul and femininity – They are young, not in terms of age but in terms of mind and spirit.
What were the inspirations behind the collection?
We looked at the flesh oil strokes of Nicola Samori’s paintings, the eclectic postmodern architecture of Ricardo Bofill, the Mysterious Sphinx sculpture by Charles Van Der Stappen, and the dystopian, tech-noir, minimal aesthetic and play of light in the solar panel scene of Andrew Niccol’s ‘Gattaca’.
What music do you listen to when you’re designing?
It really depends on the collection and the moment. For this collection I listened to the score of ‘The Hours’ and to a new amazing musician from Canada by the name of Black Atlass.
What’s the main difference between Colombian and American style?
Colombians tend to follow what Americans do in terms of trends and pop culture. That said, the culture at its core is very different – a lot more folkloric, colourful and full of amazing craftsmanship.
Tell us something we probably don’t know about Miami.
I was lucky enough to grow up in South Beach in Miami during the ’90s, which were the glory years of that town. I lived above the famous News Cafe where Gianni Versace had breakfast every morning and where so many famous shoots happened with photographers like the late Herb Ritts, or designers like Todd Oldham. There were amazing vintage stores, galleries and creativity in general. The gay culture was so alive and it was amazing to grow up around this environment.
What’s the one thing every woman should own?
A great pair of jeans and pumps.
What would you like to do if you weren’t a designer?
I would be acting or in theatre for sure.
What’s next for you?
Lots is next for me… This is the beginning of a great journey. For now, the next collection is what is next.
Collection available exclusively at Net-a-Porter.
Intro by Sarah Lakos
Interview by Alex English